How to Create a Slimmer Fit Nova Coat

The Nova Coat is designed to have a dramatic, oversized fit. If you’d prefer a little less ease, follow this tutorial to adjust your pattern pieces for a slimmer silhouette.

Start by tracing your original pattern pieces onto fresh paper.

Prepare Your Pattern Pieces

Draw a horizontal line from approximately halfway through the armhole to the centre front on your Upper Front (Piece 1) and Front Lining (Piece 7).

Place your Front Fusing (Piece 8) over your Upper Front and transfer the line.

Next, draw a vertical line from approximately halfway along the shoulder down towards the hem on your Upper Front, Lower Front and Front Lining pieces.

Repeat the process for your Back (Piece 3) and Side Back (Piece 4) pieces.

Finally, draw a vertical line down the centre of your Sleeve (Piece 5) and corresponding Sleeve Facing (Piece 9 or 10).

Front

Cut along the lines you’ve drawn.

Overlap the pieces by your desired amount, keeping the reduction consistent across all corresponding pieces.

Keep in mind that reducing the horizontal width will raise the pocket, while reducing the vertical width will narrow the coat.

Tape the pieces in place and redraw any lines that no longer align smoothly.

Back

Cut along the lines you’ve drawn.

Overlap the pieces by the same amounts used for the front, keeping the reduction consistent across all corresponding pieces.

Tape in place and redraw any lines that no longer align smoothly.

Sleeves

Cut along the line you’ve drawn.

Keep the sleeve hem in its original position and rotate the upper section until the overlap matches the total amount removed from the front and back armholes.

Tape in place.

Place the corresponding Sleeve Facing over the adjusted sleeve and overlap it to match. Tape in place.

Ready to Sew

Your slimmer-fit Nova Coat pattern is ready to go. Happy sewing!