In this third part of our Sapporo Coat series, we're showing you how to sew the sleeves. Well, technically it's the cuffs but they're deliciously wide and deep like sleeves.
A few people have opted to lengthen the cuffs so they sit longer at the wrist and this is a great idea if you want more coverage. Just bear in mind that the silhouette changes and the coat will generally look a little more oversized, which is fine but worth considering. It's funny how a small change can make a difference.
If you do want to lengthen or shorten the sleeves on your Sapporo Coat, simply take your sleeve pattern piece and draw a line across the piece, from one side notch to the other. Cut and splay out along the line, and add the desired length in between the existing sleeve pieces. This way you're not changing the general shape of the sleeve and keep the original cuff finish.
But back to the original sleeves/ cuffs for now:
Fold your cuff pieces in half widthwise and stitch. Press seams open.
Take two cuff pieces and turn one cuff the right way out.
Place it inside the other cuff piece with right sides together, making sure that the seams line up together. Stitch together around the top narrow edge.
Repeat for the remaining two cuff pieces.
Pull cuff open and understitch the seam allowance to one side. Close up, it'll look something like this:
It's tough to see the white stitching, but if you squint hard enough, you can see the understitching there along the seam line.
Turn the understitched side through to the inside and gently press the folded edge. You may wish to use a pressing cloth or tea towel between the iron and the fabric to avoid heat damage.
Baste the open edges of the cuff together (shown here with red thread). I've just done a long running stitch here which can be easily unpicked, but will still hold the edges snug.
Place the cuff inside the sleeve edge, matching the basted edge to the raw sleeve edge and the cuff seam with the side seam of the coat. Pin in place and stitch.
Pull cuff and coat out to the right side and press the sleeve seams flat.
That's it! Your sleeves/cuffs are done.
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