The Bowline Sweater is a stylish take on a wardrobe essential. The structure of the front pleat combines darts and folds to create a point of interest with the comfort of a raglan sleeve.
While the design might look complicated, it doesn't need to be difficult to make. Here's a photographic tutorial to help you on your way to a finished garment.
After attaching your first sleeve, pin your folded neck binding to the neckline stretching it on as you pin. Stitch in place and neaten seam. Press seam allowance down.
Fold in at Point "A", lining up top edge of binding with notch.
Stitch in place, tapering in at the bottom as you would for a dart. Neaten edge.
Trim 1cm off the top of the remaining sleeve piece. Stitch front sleeve edge onto sweater with right sides facing. Neaten seam and press seam allowance toward sleeve.
Fold Pleat B in half so that the edges meet up and pin together, also pinning the neck edge of sleeve to the side of shoulder pleat. Stitch then clip into the corner, being careful not to clip through your stitching.
Roll everything into the centre so that wrong sides of dart and pleat and on either side.
Fold in half, joining point A and B together, sandwiching the rest of top between. Match top edges and pin in place, straightening out the 'L' shaped pleat. The dart will be longer by about 5cm.
Pull through to the right side.
Flatten the edge of the pleat against the garment, with pleat seam 2.5cm/1" away from neckline edge. Baste in place.
Sew back sleeve edge to back armhole. Neaten and press seam allowance toward back panel.
Stitch side seams and underarm seams together. Stitch and neaten.
Fold cuffs in half, with notches remaining at top and bottom and stitch. Press seam open.
Fold bottom up to top, matching notches.
Pin cuff to right side of the sleeve opening. Stitch in place and neaten. Repeat for other sleeve and press.
Sew short ends of waistband together. Fold bottom up to top, so that the seams are on the inside.
Attach raw edges of waistband to the bottom of sweater, lining up the seam of band with one of the side seams of the top. Pin together then stitch. Neaten edges.
Voila! Enjoy your new Bowline Sweater.
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